Our individual lives are clusters of unique realities given to us by virtue of God, Parents, and Fate. We seldom stop to think about the singularity and importance of each moment amidst the daily chores of our fast-paced life that forces us to be in a state of constant motion and pursue creative growth. Yet whenever we chance to find some spare time on our hands, we indulge in pleasant reminiscences or go for active recreation that provides an inspirational and bonding experience for our next of kin. Since there are no two identical families in terms of habits, lifestyle, customs, atmosphere, and traditions, I would like to especially highlight the traditions of my own family.
Mine is a Kazakh family, and the distinctive trait of my native people is hospitality. Proofs of this are Kazakh sayings: “A guest brings happiness in tow”, “All of us are guests to each other in this perishable world”. This being the case, we never miss an opportunity to lay an abundant dastarkhan (table, feast) for our own families.
Figure 1. Dastarkhan. Source: wikipedia.org
When I am far away from my parents, in my mind’s eye I picture us cooking the traditional much-loved dish – As (pronounced “us”). The origins of As go back many centuries, and the dish even has a second jocular name Besbarmak (literally “five fingers”), since our nomadic ancestors considered it convenient to cook in field conditions (in caldrons on an open fire) and took the boiled meat with their hands, washing it down with aromatic sorpa (broth). Imagine this scenic picture: a mountain village relocating to a summer camp site in early spring; the steppe awash in flowers and tall lush grass; moonlight reflecting off white yurtas (tents); the break of dawn flooding the boundless expanses of the steppe with the first rays of sun; male elders, the Aqsaqals, seated at an abundant dastarkhan and unhurriedly relating the feats of batyr warriors of olden days, moving stories of passionate love, daring horsemen and charming ladies – and all of this splendor is surrounded with a poetic halo.
Many a century has passed since those days, while As remains the king of our dastarkhan. This is the royal dish of the Kazakh cuisine, which stands out for its exceptional flavor, rich calories, and one-of-a-kind aroma.
Everybody takes an active part in the process of cooking this dish at our home. Mother starts this rite at the kitchen. As any Kazakh woman who is the caretaker of the “family hearth” and upholds the traditions of hospitality of its people, she always makes sure the fridge is stuffed with food so she would not be taken by surprise by any unplanned celebrations or unexpected guests.
For our family of five, she buys 10 pounds of fine meat, or possibly less, allowing for the fact that guests may arrive without advance notice – such are the Kazakh customs. Back at home she seasons the meat with salt and pepper, leaves it for 4 hours to absorb the seasoning, and then places it in a pot with enough salted water to cover the meat. While being cooked on a slow fire, the meat remains soft and tender while becoming juicy and taking on a savory flavor. This flavor and Mother’s smile inspire us to join the cooking process immediately.
Mother! A grand and holy being whose purpose is to give Life, bring Solace, and inspire Dreams. Her selfless, boundless, and unconditional love will always bring us back to the bright world of our childhood when we would return from school in blissful anticipation of a family dinner and especially As – this incredible dish that combines parental wisdom and children’s candor, which fills us with a sense of enthusiasm and comfort, freedom from concerns and worries, a rush of energy and optimism.
Stepping through the doorway and catching a whiff of the unmistakable aroma, we all take part in the cooking of As with great pleasure. Kazakh customs consider preparation of food to be unworthy of males. This is why Father, as befits a real oriental host, performs the most honorable mission reserved for him – cutting the meat – only after the meat has been brought to the dining room. He distributes the tastiest pieces among us following a special ritual – the first piece goes to the wife, followed by daughters and then the son.
Oriental customs aside, as a modern young man I lend a hand at peeling potatoes and onions. Mother and sisters roll thin unleavened dough consisting of slightly salted warm water (or broth), 2 eggs, and sieved flour. Sister Anelia puts potatoes in a separate small pot with pepper and spices, adds the nourishing broth, and puts it on a slow fire. After 15 minutes she adds onions cut up in rings and potherbs.
Mother and sisters then serve the dish. They arrange incredibly delicious and tender sochnyas (scones rolled from unleavened dough and cut up into small pieces) boiled in the broth on a platter, cover the sochnyas with rich assorted meats, potatoes, green onions, herbs, and season all of this with tuzdyk sauce. The sorpa broth is served separately.
Sister Aselia is serving As exuding an enticing aroma on a large platter.
Figure 2. Besbarmak. Source: forum.materinstvo.ru
We eat As with relish, wash it down with the broth and listen to Father’s unhurried story. Father tells us about our direct ancestors, their acts worthy of great respect, emphasizing that everybody must know this, since Kazakhs believe that “Not knowing your ancestry seven generations back means being an orphan”.
Father is invariably attentive; he is an excellent storyteller and a sensitive psychologist. He gives us wings, teaches us to dream and accomplish results.
I thank my fate for having been blessed with motherly affection, fatherly care since my childhood and for the radiant glow of parental love that gave me wings.
I believe that my parents succeeded in filling the souls of their offspring with purity, light, and happiness, introducing us to all the lofty things that are otherwise unachievable.
When harmony rules in the family, one finds it much easier to grow wings needed to achieve creative pinnacles in any endeavor. For the source of all victories is the warmth of the family hearth, the strength of our roots, the love and support of our parents who bring all their children together around an abundant dastarkhan with the invariable powerful symbol of abundance – the delicious As.
I am pleased to note that in Kazakhstan, which is home to representatives of over 100 nationalities, the symbol of abundance, As, has become the most popular, most-loved and respected dish, an embellishment on the dastarkhans of all Kazakhs.
While treating their fellow countrymen to this wonderful dish, Kazakhs also shared the abundance of their soul with them. After all, abundance is not only richness in money terms, but also the ability to share your traditions, spiritual and material wealth, thereby bringing different peoples and continents together.
"Besbarmak." From materinstvo.ru
http://forum.materinstvo.ru/index.php?showtopic=435234
"Dastarkhan." From wikipedia.org
http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Бешбармак
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